Beyond the Dzong — Unveiling the Secrets of Punakha Tshechu

The Punakha Tshechu is one of the most historically resonant festivals in Bhutan, held in the courtyard of Punakha Dzong — the fortress monastery built in 1637 at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, and the former seat of Bhutan's government. Unlike most other Tshechus, the Punakha festival re-enacts Bhutan's 17th-century victory over invading Tibetan forces, its Cham dances carrying historical as well as spiritual weight, performed by monks and members of the Pazaps, the traditional militia. On the final morning, the great Thongdroel — Bhutan's largest sacred religious scroll — is unfurled before dawn, believed to cleanse the sins of all who see it. The festival also marks the arrival of the Layaps, the highland community from Laya, who descend to Punakha each year in their distinctive dress to take part. This itinerary builds the festival into a complete journey through western Bhutan: Thimphu's monuments, the high passes of Dochula, the Punakha valley in full festival mode, and a closing hike to Tiger's Nest above Paro.